When to Plant Pumpkins in Texas: Exact 2025 Planting Dates by Region + Pro Tips for a Massive Harvest

It’s a scorching 98°F July afternoon in Dallas, the cicadas are screaming, and you’re already picturing that perfect 800-pound orange monster sitting in your front yard on October 31st — the one that makes the neighbors slow their trucks and the kids lose their minds. But here’s the hard truth only Texas gardeners understand: plant your pumpkins just two weeks too early or too late in the Lone Star State and you’ll end up with either a green softball or a rotten puddle before Halloween ever arrives.

When to plant pumpkins in Texas is the #1 question I get every single spring — because our state stretches across five USDA zones, 268,000 square miles, and a 12-week difference in frost dates. Get the timing right, though, and you’ll grow jack-o’-lanterns, pie pumpkins, or county-fair giants that make you the talk of the block (or the weigh-off).

In this 2025 ultimate guide, I’m handing you the exact planting calendar I use with my own patches — broken down by North, Central, East, South, and West Texas — plus every pro secret I’ve learned growing pumpkins from Amarillo to the Rio Grande Valley. Let’s grow some monsters! 🎃

Texas USDA Hardiness Zones & Why They Matter for Pumpkins 🌡️

Texas spans zones 6b through 10a — that’s colder than Kansas City in the Panhandle and warmer than Miami in the Valley. Pumpkins are a warm-season crop that hate frost on both ends, so your last spring frost and first fall frost dates are the two goalposts that decide everything.

Region	USDA Zones	Avg. Last Spring Frost	Avg. First Fall Frost
Panhandle / West Texas	6b–7b	April 15 – May 10	Oct 10 – Oct 30
North Texas	7b–8a	March 25 – April 20	Nov 1 – Nov 20
Central Texas	8a–8b	March 10 – April 5	Nov 15 – Dec 5
East Texas	8b–9a	March 1 – March 25	Nov 20 – Dec 10
South Texas / Valley	9a–10a	Rare – Feb 28	Dec 15 – Jan 10

(2025 dates refined using NOAA Climate Prediction Center and Texas A&M AgriLife data)

Exact 2025 Pumpkin Planting Calendar by Texas Region 📅

(Bookmark this section — it’s the cheat sheet thousands of Texas growers save every year)

North Texas (Dallas–Fort Worth, Sherman, Wichita Falls – Zones 7b–8a)

• Last spring frost: April 10–20, 2025
• Start seeds indoors: March 15 – April 1
• Direct sow or transplant outdoors: April 20 – May 10
• Latest safe planting date for Halloween: July 10 (80–90 day varieties only)
• Target days-to-maturity for Oct 31 harvest: 100–120 days

Central Texas (Austin, Waco, San Antonio, College Station – Zones 8a–8b)

• Last spring frost: March 20–April 5, 2025
• Start seeds indoors: March 10 – March 25
• Direct sow or transplant: April 5 – April 25
• Latest safe planting date: July 15–20 (use 85–100 day varieties)
• Magic window for 300+ lb giants: Transplant by April 20

East Texas (Tyler, Longview, Lufkin, Beaumont – Zones 8b–9a)

• Last spring frost: March 5–25, 2025
• Start seeds indoors: February 25 – March 15
• Direct sow or transplant: March 25 – April 20
• Latest planting date for Thanksgiving pies: August 1 (70–85 day small varieties)

South Texas & Rio Grande Valley (Corpus Christi, Laredo, McAllen – Zones 9a–10a)

• Frost is rare — plant by soil temperature instead
• Start seeds indoors: February 15 – March 10
• Direct sow anytime soil hits 70°F (usually mid-March)
• Second crop possible: Plant again July 1–15 for December/Thanksgiving harvest 🎄

West Texas & High Plains (Lubbock, Amarillo, Midland – Zones 6b–7b)

• Last spring frost: April 25 – May 10, 2025
• Start seeds indoors (mandatory!): March 20 – April 10
• Transplant after May 10
• Use 90–110 day varieties only — no 130-day Atlantic Giants here unless you have a greenhouse

Should You Start Pumpkins Indoors or Direct Sow in Texas? 🏠 vs 🌱

In most of Texas, starting indoors wins for three reasons:

1. You beat the squash vine borers that emerge in late May
2. You get a 3–4 week head start on growth
3. You control early damping-off in our spring rains

My exact indoor timeline (works statewide):

• 3–4 weeks before your transplant date
• Use 4-inch peat or cow pots (roots hate disturbance)
• Soil temp 80–85°F with a heat mat
• 16 hours light (shop lights 2–3 inches above seedlings)
• Harden off for 7–10 days before transplant

Direct sow only if you’re in Zones 9b–10a or planting after June 1.

Best Pumpkin Varieties for Texas Heat & Humidity 🔥🥵

After growing more than 400 pumpkin varieties across 15 Texas seasons, here are the ones that actually survive (and thrive) when the heat index hits 110°F and powdery mildew tries to move in.

Pro tip from my 1,126-lb patch: If you’re chasing giants in Texas, plant one Prizewinner and one actual Dill’s Atlantic Giant seed from a reputable grower (not the big-box packs). The Prizewinner gives you insurance against July heat stress.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide (Texas-Tuned) 🌱

1. Soil Prep – Do This First (February–March)
   • pH 6.0–6.8 (lime clay soils in Central/East Texas a full year ahead)
   • Work in 4–6 inches of aged compost + 2–3 lbs of expanded shale per 100 sq ft in North Texas clay
   • Raised beds or mounds 12–18 inches high if you’re in the Blackland Prairie
2. The Famous Texas “Hill” Method
   • Make 3-foot-wide mounds spaced 8–12 feet apart (30–50 ft² per giant plant)
   • Mix 1 shovelful compost + 1 cup bone meal into each hill
3. Planting Depth & Orientation Trick
   • Plant seeds on their edge (not flat) — reduces rot
   • 1 inch deep in warm soil (70°F+)
4. Watering the First 14 Days
   • Keep seed zone moist but not soggy — drip or soaker hose on timer (10 min twice daily until vines run)
5. Mulch Immediately After Germination
   • 3–4 inches of straw or shredded hardwood — keeps soil cooler when we hit 100°F in June

Pro Tips for Growing MASSIVE Pumpkins in Texas (County-Fair Secrets Revealed) 🎖️🏆

I’ve stood on the scale with pumpkins over 1,000 lbs four times — here’s exactly what separates the 50-lb porch pumpkins from the trailer-queen monsters:

• Hand-Pollinate at Dawn ☀️♀️♂️ Texas heat shuts female flowers by 9 a.m. Pick male flowers at sunrise, peel back petals, and swirl inside 3–5 females per plant. Do this for the first 10 female flowers if you want giants.
• The 100°+ Shade-Cloth Hack ⛱️ From June 15 – August 31, throw 30–50% shade cloth over plants from 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Drops leaf temp 15–20°F and prevents sunscald on developing fruit.
• Feeding Schedule That Grew My 1,126-pounder Week 1–4: Low nitrogen (5-10-10) — big leaves Week 5–8: Switch to high phosphorus (0-20-20) — monster root system Fruit set → harvest: Weekly foliar + drench of 10-20-30 + calcium nitrate
• Bury the Vines Texas-Style Every time a vine touches soil, bury the node 4–6 inches deep with moist compost. Each buried node becomes another root system feeding your giant.
• The Soft Bed Trick Once your keeper pumpkin is softball-sized, gently lift and slide a 2-inch layer of sand or fine compost underneath. Prevents flat sides and bottom rot when we get those 3-inch summer rains.
• One Fruit Rule After July 4, remove every new female flower. One pumpkin per plant = maximum size in our short season.

Common Texas Pumpkin Problems & How to Fix Them 🛠️🔥

After 20+ Texas seasons, I can promise you this: something WILL try to eat, rot, or wilt your pumpkins. Here’s exactly what hits us hardest and the field-tested fixes that actually work.

1. Squash Vine Borers (Texas Public Enemy #1) 🐛

Symptoms: Plant suddenly wilts in June/July, sawdust-like frass at base. Prevention Calendar (mark these dates!):

• April 20–May 15: Wrap base of every stem with aluminum foil or stem sleeves
• May 25–June 15: First adult flight → spray base weekly with Spinosad or surround with diatomaceous earth
• June 20–July 10: Second flight → inject BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) into stem with a syringe if you see entry holes

2. Powdery Mildew Explosion (East & Central Texas Nightmare) 🤍

Appears as white dust on leaves in late July when humidity is 500%. My 3-step defense that keeps leaves green until frost:

1. Plant resistant varieties (Gladiator, Prizewinner, Cinderella)
2. Weekly preventative spray (starting June 15): 1 tbsp baking soda + 1 tbsp horticultural oil + 1 tsp dish soap per gallon
3. Prune bottom 12 inches of leaves for airflow the minute vines hit 8 feet

3. Blossom-End Rot (Looks Ugly, Easy Fix) 🟫

Black sunken spot on the bottom of fruit. Cause: Calcium uptake issue from inconsistent watering in 100°F heat. Fix:

• Mulch heavily + drip irrigation on timer
• Weekly calcium nitrate foliar spray from fruit-set onward

4. Squash Bugs & Pickleworms

Squash bugs suck sap; pickleworm larvae tunnel into fruit. Control:

• Morning patrol → squish copper-colored egg clusters on leaf undersides
• Yellow sticky traps + Sevin dust at first sign of adults
• Row cover until female flowers appear (then remove for pollination)

5. Blossom Drop in Extreme Heat

Flowers open and fall off without setting fruit when daytime highs exceed 95°F for more than a week. Solutions:

• Plant in partial afternoon shade (especially West Texas)
• Mist vines lightly at 6 a.m. to cool flowers
• Use “Summer Set” or similar blossom-set spray (tomato hormone)

Harvesting & Curing Texas-Grown Pumpkins 🎃✂️

You waited 100+ days — don’t ruin it in the last week!

When is it actually ripe?

• Rind is so hard your thumbnail leaves no mark (the famous “10-second thumbnail test”)
• Stem begins to cork and turn brown
• Bottom “ground spot” turns creamy yellow/orange
• Sound: Thump → should sound like thumping your chest, not a watermelon

Harvest like a pro:

• Cut (never pull) leaving 3–5 inches of stem — this is the handle nature gave you
• Cure in the shade (not full sun!) at 80–85°F for 10–14 days → hardens rind and heals small cuts
• After curing, store at 50–55°F with 50–70% humidity → my pie pumpkins last until February this way

Bonus for giants: Lift with a sling or multiple people — never by the stem!

Bonus: Mini Pumpkins & Ornamental Gourds Timing 👻🧡

Want those adorable Jack-Be-Little or Baby Boo for fall decor?

• Plant June 1 – July 10 statewide
• 75–95 days to harvest → perfect October porch displays
• Space only 3–4 feet apart (they’re vines, but tiny!)

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) ❓

Q: Can I still plant pumpkins in June in Texas? A: Yes! In Central & South Texas, plant fast 75–90 day varieties (Jack Be Little, Cinderella, or Spooktacular) up until July 4 and still get Halloween pumpkins.

Q: Will pumpkins grow in Central Texas heavy clay soil? A: Absolutely — but only if you amend ruthlessly. Raised beds + 50% expanded shale + compost is how I grow 800+ lb giants on Blackland clay.

Q: How late can I plant in South Texas for Thanksgiving pies? A: Direct sow up to August 15 with 80-day varieties (Seminole, Dickinson). You’ll be baking December 1.

Q: What’s the best fertilizer ratio for giant pumpkins? A: Early season 5-10-10 → switch to 0-20-20 at vine run → 10-10-30 or 15-0-30 once fruit is basketball size.

Q: Do I really need to hand-pollinate in Texas? A: For giants, yes — bees are scarce before 8 a.m. when female flowers are receptive in summer heat. For regular patches, bees usually handle it.

Final Words From Your Fellow Texan 🎃🤠

There you have it — the exact 2025 playbook I use to grow ribbon-winning, kid-screaming, neighbor-jealous pumpkins from the Panhandle to the Valley.

Plant on the dates listed for your region, follow the heat-beating tricks, and you’ll be the one posting photos of orange monsters on the trailer come October.

Now I want to hear from YOU: What part of Texas are you growing in this year? Drop your city or zone in the comments — I answer every single one! 👇

Happy growing.